Discovery 3.9 Auto to 200 Tdi 5 speed manual conversion

Day 2 -  9/Feb/2005

Time to remove the center console. You have to slacken off the hand brake to get the lever vertical so removal is easy - here you can see the handbrake being loosened using a ratchet with a 17 mm socket

After removing the screw in the cubby box and near the Hi Low lever, you can pass the Electric window switches through the aperture. 

Pull of the sound proofing.


Remove the screws holding the shift cover on

Pries off the shifter cap to gain access to the lock mechanism - remove all parts


Pull off the rear heater ducts and drill out the pop rivets holding the Hi Low gaiter, then remove the 4 x screws holding on the shifter unit on.

Back on the underside, remove the split pin holding the shifter linkage to the gearbox. ( Best done with the exhaust off)

The block holding the shifter cable can now be removed using a 13 mm spanner (tricky)

While Mike had the nice job of pulling off the console, I had the job on the underside pulling off the exhaust - these are 13 mm nuts and can be tight - you may need to heat the nuts as they snap the studs on the manifold - wear goggles as the rust on the exhaust seems to have a magnetic attraction for your eyes!

After a bit of wrestling, the front pipe was off!

Not content with being dirty I had to get very dirty! The prop shafts have to now be removed - pretty easy but the nuts can be tight and difficult to access - jack up one wheel and allow to turn - you did remember to put the vehicle in neutral before you started right?

We are changing this vehicle to a nice manual gearbox, so the pedal box has to be taken out - start by removing the cover on the steering shaft to gain access to the pinch bolts.

Once the bolts are out (on in the case of the front joint, it just needs to be loose) use a screw driver to wiggle the joint open a bit.

Use an 11 mm spanner to get the brake pipes off the master cylinder

Working on the inside and under the bonnet, remove all bolts holding the pedal box in place.

Remove the bolts holding on the steering column support - there is no need to remove the steering column.

Remove switches on the brake pedal and the wiring trunking attached to the inside of the pedal box

Now with a bit of wriggling, swearing, spitting, and a few cuts, you can easy get the pedal box out in one big lump - hello what's this! Rover in their anticipation have already fitted the clutch pivot and bracket. But this is supposed to be an automatic!

I was fed up of being clean, so back underneath and remove the gearbox crossmember - take out the bolts and using a hydraulic jack force the chassis open. Mike, while looking cool, didn't impress me at all!

If in doubt - hammer it out! There was a bit of rust behind the flanges so a light tap freed it off

Removing the torque converter cover

With the cover off the torque converter housing, the 4 x bolts can be accessed and removed - they are tricky to get into.

Mike holds the crank while I get the bolts off the torque converter - these bolts are held in with Loctite and are stiff to remove.


Not a very good picture, but support the engine with your hoist and after removing the nuts (18 mm) lift the engine and remove them. We were lucky as the mountings had sheared off so were easy to get out, but if they cannot be removed you have to take the bracket off the engine at both sides. This is easier said than done!

Take off the grill and remove the oil cooler pipes and remove 

Take them off the gearbox along with the dipstick tube

For those of you thinking that Mikes cigar lasts forever, or that we are doing this job so fast that it only takes the time to smoke a cigar, let me tell you it was out! Anyway, with the engine dropped you can get to the top engine mounting bolts - tricky.

The last thing is to unclip the gearbox harness (above the pedal box on the outside), support the gearbox on a jack roughly in the middle and lower it - it is heavy so don't even think of lifting it by hand!

We leave one bolt in the rear mounting until we are ready to drop it.

Use a bar to pull the gearbox off the engine

After a bit of a struggle, the gearbox is out. Mike proudly holds down his 'kill'!

Don't forget to remove this switch near the back of the engine before slinging it for lifting - the chain has a habit of snapping them off - and they are not cheap!

The engine can now be lifted out pretty easy 

Now with all fuel lines plugged and any combustible materials out of the way, you can cut off the old engine mounts. Please note we are using fire proof towels to protect the vehicle!

With glasses on, grind the faces clean - put a cover over the windscreen to prevent the sparks hitting the glass - they mark very badly

The old engine mounts were cut off the 200 Tdi chassis and welded in the same place - we use a template from the old chassis to be 100% accurate

The new engine mounts in place.


Last job of the day was to bring in the new engine and check the clutch. This is common practice for us as they are difficult to do when the engine / gearbox is in the vehicle. And good thing too!

The pivot ball  is just about to pop through the release arm!

Only 47,000 miles old

This is why on the Defender and Disco, the clutch can be OK one day then no clutch, but a very hard pedal the next - it can happen any time and usually when you don't expect it

This is common on the LT77 and R380. There is no anti friction material on the surface, so we fit a new one and fit one of our Britrest reinforcement pads. 

Click here to day 3

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Copyright 2004 [Britannica Restorations]. All rights reserved.
Revised: February 18, 2014 .